Underfloor heating pipework laid across a vaulted room before screeding

Underfloor heating, installed properly

Even, gentle warmth with no radiators on the walls - for new builds, extensions and existing homes, and the perfect partner for a heat pump.

Comfort from the ground up

Underfloor heating warms a room evenly from the floor, without hot and cold spots or radiators taking up wall space. Because it spreads heat over a large area, it can run at lower temperatures - which makes it especially efficient with a heat pump.

  • Even, comfortable warmth across the whole room
  • No visible radiators - more freedom with layouts and furniture
  • Efficient, gentle heat at lower flow temperatures
  • Room-by-room control with zoned thermostats
Underfloor heating pipes laid across a large oak-framed room

Works well with heat pumps

Runs at the low flow temperatures heat pumps are most efficient at.

No radiators on walls

Frees up wall space for furniture, art or a clean, uncluttered look.

Even heat, no cold spots

Warms the whole floor evenly instead of just the area around a radiator.

Comfort underfoot

Warm floors year-round, especially welcome on tiles in kitchens and bathrooms.

Wet or electric?

Two types of system, each suited to different situations.

Wet (water-based) systems

Pipes laid in the floor carry warm water from a boiler or heat pump. Wet systems are ideal for whole floors, new builds and extensions, and generally cost less to run.

  • Best for larger areas and whole floors
  • Works with boilers and heat pumps
  • Lower running costs

Electric systems

Thin heating mats or cables sit just under the floor finish. Electric systems are quick to fit and suit single rooms such as bathrooms and kitchens.

  • Best for single rooms and smaller areas
  • Minimal floor height build-up
  • Quick to install

New build & retrofit

Every property is different and the right approach depends on the floor build-up, ceiling heights and which rooms are a priority. We'll survey your floors room by room and recommend the system that fits your home, your budget and your timeline, whether that's a full retrofit across the ground floor or underfloor heating in just the kitchen and bathroom.

New builds and extensions are the ideal time to fit underfloor heating. With the structure still open, pipes are laid across the subfloor and clipped into place before the screed goes down, giving a completely level finish with no visible pipework, no radiators to plan around, and no compromise on the flow temperature your heat pump runs at.

Existing homes can have it too, and it's more achievable than most homeowners expect. Low-profile systems sit on top of existing floors with as little as 15-22mm of build-up, so they can go in without ripping out floors or losing significant ceiling height, which matters in a period property with lower doorways or original skirting to protect. On suspended timber floors, pipes are fitted between the joists from below, heating the floor from underneath without touching the floor surface at all - ideal where the finish upstairs, whether original floorboards, tiles or engineered wood, needs to stay untouched.

Underfloor heating pipes laid on insulation in a new-build home
New build
Underfloor heating in an oak-framed room
Timber frame

A natural partner for heat pumps

Heat pumps are most efficient when they run at lower temperatures - and underfloor heating is designed to do exactly that. Combining the two gives you comfortable, even heat and helps your heat pump deliver the lowest running costs.

Two Grant Aerona air source heat pumps installed on a concrete base outside a new-build home

How we work

Floor build-up and screed curing times affect the schedule - we'll plan these with you and your builder.

Survey

We look at your floors, rooms and heat source, and discuss how you'd like to control the heating.

Design

We calculate heat loss, plan pipe layouts and zones, and confirm the floor build-up.

Install

Insulation, pipes or mats and the manifold are installed and pressure-tested before floors are finished.

Commission

Once screed has cured, the system is brought up to temperature gradually, balanced and handed over.

Recent underfloor installs

Frequently asked questions

Which floor finishes work with underfloor heating?

Tiles and stone are ideal because they conduct heat well. Engineered wood, laminate, vinyl and many carpets also work, as long as the product and any underlay are suitable for underfloor heating. We'll check your chosen finish.

How much does underfloor heating cost to run?

It depends on the system, your home's insulation and how you use it. Wet systems running from a heat pump or efficient boiler are usually the most economical, while electric systems are better suited to smaller rooms.

Can underfloor heating go into an older property?

Often, yes. Low-profile systems can suit existing floors, and pipes can be fitted between joists on timber floors. We'll assess your floors and insulation before recommending anything.

Can I control rooms separately?

Yes - underfloor heating is usually split into zones with their own thermostats, so you can heat each area as you need.

How much does underfloor heating cost to install?

For wet underfloor heating, where warm water runs through pipework in the floor, UK costs typically run from around £85 to £135 per square metre in a new build or extension, and from £95 to £185 per square metre when retrofitting into an existing room, because the existing floor has to come up first. Electric systems are cheaper to install, usually £50 to £85 per square metre, but more expensive to run, which is why they tend to suit a single bathroom rather than a whole floor.

Will it raise my floor height?

In a new build, no, because the system is designed into the floor build-up from the start. Retrofitting into an existing room does add height, though low profile systems keep the panel itself to around 15 to 20mm, with a total build-up closer to 25 to 30mm once the floor finish is on. That matters most at door thresholds and at the bottom of stairs. We measure up and tell you exactly what it means for your doors before you commit.

How soon can I use the floor after installation?

If the system goes into liquid screed, the screed needs about a week to cure before any heat goes through it. Then the system is brought up to temperature gradually, typically rising a few degrees a day, held at its maximum for several days and brought back down, rather than being switched straight on. That commissioning cycle takes a couple of weeks. After that the screed needs to dry down to the moisture level your floor covering requires, which depends on the thickness of the screed and the conditions on site. Traditional sand and cement screed is slower throughout. We handle the commissioning schedule so the screed is not damaged, and we give you realistic dates for when the floor finish can go down.

Is it worth putting underfloor heating in just one room?

Often yes, particularly in a bathroom, kitchen or extension. A single room can run off its own manifold or an electric mat, and you get the comfort without committing to the whole house. If you are likely to extend the system later, tell us now and we will size the manifold and controls accordingly, which is far cheaper than redoing it.

Can you repair underfloor heating that is already installed?

Yes. The usual culprits are a failed manifold actuator, a blocked or airlocked loop, or controls that were never set up correctly in the first place, which is more common than people think. We can trace and fix all of those. Genuine pipe leaks under a floor are rare, and traceable when they do happen.

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